menswear collection
this collection is inspired by vintage gay pornography. the
clothes are centred around how the male body is perceived
and interacted with. there is a frequent use of splits and
cutouts, which give both visibility and physical access
to the body. other design details draw attention to male
private parts, eg the design details on the backs of jeans, or
cutouts on front exposing tight underwear. silhouette is a
mix of fitted and loose, formal and casual. masculine, but
subversively so. draped elements + sandals are allusions to
Greek and Roman clothing, soemthing which Per Gotesson
does too. the coour palette of black, white and denim
tones is also a reference to Per Gotesson.
the designs take inspiration from Tom of Finland’s
illustrations and 1970s fashion and fetishwear, with many
of the design lines on jeans lifted directly from original
illustration.
the prints in this collection are black and white half-tone
screenprints. they collage imagery from Tom of Finland
Illustrations, Robert Mapplethorpe’s photography, and
photographs from a 1930s medical journal. this blend of
imagery from art, science and pornography gives different
lenses through which to view the male body: blurring the
line between pornography and the body.
photography by Shen Osaki